What does a 1906 French short film by Alice Guy-Blaché have in common with Josephine Baker and Marlene Dietrich? They’re being honoured in the exhibition Goddess: Power, Glamour, Rebellion (Goddess exhibition) being held at the Australian Centre of the Moving Image in Melbourne until 1 October 2023.
ACMI’s Goddess: Power, Glamour, Rebellion, photo by Eugene Hyland
The Goddess exhibition celebrates the women and gender-transcending superstars who shaped their own roles, took creative control and fought a system that tried to exploit them. It does so through moments from over 120 years of moving image history highlighting iconic stories, characters and moments.
The exhibition includes never-before-seen costumes, original sketches, interactive experiences and cinematic treasures, including iconic outfits worn by Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe, Geena Davis and Margot Robbie. The women featured in the Goddess exhibition are far more than the bombshells, starlets or screen siren stereotypes that were used to undermine them.
ACMI’s Goddess: Power, Glamour, Rebellion, photo by Eugene Hyland
French links in the Goddess exhibition include a 1906 French short film Les Résultats du féminisme (Consequences of Feminism), from Alice Guy-Blaché. A gender-bending comedy which sees men raising the kids, ironing and sewing while women smoke, drink and prey upon the ‘weaker sex’ with lurid advances. The short film addresses the fears about feminism not being about euality but about waging war on men. It playfully suggests that men wouldn’t tolerate being treated the way women are so why should they expect women to.
French Légion d’honneur awarded Marlene Dietrich is also celebrated in the Goddess exhibition, with pieces worn by her on show. These include
patent leather and silk grosgrain ribbon Delman Tuxedo pumps, kindly provided for the exhibition by the FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandizing, Los Angeles; and
14ct gold and ruby cufflinks from Marlene Dietrich’s personal wardrobe courtesy of Deutsche Kinemathek – Marlene Dietrich.
Marlene Dietrich made her own path and courted controversy for doing so. The first lesbian kiss in cinema wearing a tuxedo was by Marlene Dietrich. She was reprimanded in Paris for wearing trousers. A flyer from the Marlene Dietrich and Anna May Wong in Shanghai Express film is on show at the Goddess exhibition.
ACMI’s Goddess: Power, Glamour, Rebellion, photo by Eugene Hyland
Another woman embraced by the French is Josephine Baker who Goddess celebrates for weaponizing glamour. Baker was the first African American woman lead in a feature film, Sirens of the Tropics (1927). Though the film and Baker’s ‘banana dance’ conjured White colonial fantasies, her performances parodied the sexualisation of Black women.
Baker was also a war hero for the French Resistance. When Germany invaded France in World War II, Baker weaponised her glamour to defend her adopted home. After spying on German officers, she smuggled top-secret messages in her underwear unsuspected. Back in America, she wouldn’t perform for segregated audiences and was the only woman who spoke alongside Martin Luther King Jr in the 1963 March on Washington.
The Goddess exhibition includes sketches for Josephine Baker’s stage costumes Eric De Juan, 1949 (courtesy of Fashion Institute of Technology SUNY, FIT Library Unit of Special Collections and College Archives), and an exhibition print by Michael Ochs, 1951.
The Goddess exhibition is an ode to be a boundary-breaking, glass-ceiling smashing women and is on at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image until the beginning of October 2023.
Eyes on Floyd is a French clothing and accessories brand founded by Wendy Trinet in Melbourne. We have a chat to Wendy about Eyes on Floyd, her career path and French style.
Wendy, you are the founder of the Franco-Australian brand, Eyes on Floyd. Tell us a little about why you founded this brand.
I’ve always dreamt of having my own label that offered all the styles I love to wear. Whilst being on maternity leave I realised that now was the time to take the step and finally take a chance and live my dream of starting my own label.
My great grandmother who was a leading stylist in Paris in the 60s, I was always inspired by vintage fashion. At the heart of each collection is my love for women’s silhouette, for travelling and for pieces with history. I wants women to feel comfortable, yet chic, in pieces that can easily transition from day to night with a bit of accessorising. From clothing, to sun glasses and jewellery to fashion books, each piece is meant to resonate emotionally with you – like a romantic souvenir you would bring back from a far away country.
How long has Eyes on Floyd existed?
I launched my first range online in September 2017 and we opened our first ever pop up shop last November in Camberwell.
The pop up shop was only supposed to be opened for 1 month, we wanted to create a little treasure trove like you can find hidden in the streets of Paris. We created this Parisian nook with much attention to the details; from the vintage tablecloths, napkins or teacups to the old school labels, you can find the French touch everywhere… Even in the soft accents of our sellers! The response was overwhelmingly positive and we decided to keep the boutique open indefinitely.
Why the name Eyes on Floyd?
My first boy is called Floyd and after having him I could not take my eyes off him. He was about 10 months old when I decided to start my label and my husband was the one who came up with the label name!
How do you describe the Eyes on Floyd look?
“Eyes On Floyd is for the romantic in all of us. For the bohemian goddess whose waiting to be set free. It’s for the dreamers and the travellers who want a touch of France to bring home with them.”
Ranging from French-Broderies Anglaise, Lace dresses, to hand-crafted crochet or to vintage-inspired Victorian pieces, Eyes on Floyd offers sentimentally chic, romantic, with a touch of Boho, versatile pieces that can take you to your dream on a whim. Most pieces are designed and sourced to be worn on all different body shapes with its floaty and loose fits. I want women to feel comfortable, yet chic, in pieces that can easily transition from day to night with a bit of accessorising. They also can achieve a great look with not much effort and make you feel good about yourself.
At the heart of every Eyes on Floyd collection is the love of travel, vintage clothes, old family photos and the beach. Whether it be from the Paris to the South of France or from Melbourne to the beaches in Sorrento, I source inspiration from different places, people and cultures, to create a brand that perfectly combines my busy life as a mum as well as a dreamer and an addict to clothes and accessories!
As a mother who loves to entertain and spend time with my friends as much as I loves to travel the world, the brand embodies so much more than just clothing. Eyes on Floyd is about the way we live in the pieces, where we travel, how we entertain, how we style ourselves, and how we feel about ourselves.
Who are your muses?
It changes all the time! But the ones that still inspires me today are Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, Edie Sedgwick.
How is your brand different to others that we find in Australia?
I think being French makes my brand different to other Australian brands naturally. It gives it a “je ne sais quoi”.
Being proud of my origin, Eyes On Floyd is more than just an accessories & clothing label. I aim to create a true experience in our store and online. Online, we share our Parisian secrets on our blog dedicated to our Australian darlings: ‘Les Filles’ – girls/ladies in French – after the affectionate term we call a squad of girlfriends in France. Even our emails will greet you in French! And you’ll receive you packages delicately wrapped with a vintaged laced ribbon.
Some of the clothing that can be found under the brand Eyes on Floyd is your own creations. Where are they made?
The dresses and tops that I have designed were made in Bali as well as in India. Also there is a few pieces of jewellery that I make myself, mainly the beaded necklaces and bracelets.
Originally I used to design and produce everything myself but once we opened our pop up store, I realised I did not have enough stock to support the demand. The lead time to get clothes developed and produce takes at least a couple of months. I then had to start sourcing clothes and accessories from some different suppliers in France as well as other countries.
You’ve studied economics, design and digital media. How have your studies helped you set up and market your brand?
It gave me the basics in knowing how to sewn, make a pattern, draw, communicate and good work ethics. I learnt most of what was valuable to start your label when I was doing work experience as a fashion student back in London as well working full time in the fashion industry after I graduated.
I also have had to learn a lot myself over the years as things develops and changes so quickly. For example back a few years ago, there was no social media and to get any kind of publicity you needed to send a letter, make a phone call or send an email. I have had to learn a lot about adjusting with the quick evolution of social media and marketing. It is a constant learning curve but I love it!
Since your childhood, you have been passionate about fashion, drawing dresses and offering them as gifts to your Mum As a child, did you think you would be a fashion designer when you grew up?
I wanted to be a vet for SeaWorld until I was about 12 years old. Then in my teenagers years I started making and altering my clothes and realised that this was the only thing that I wanted to do.
When I was 16 years old, my mum and I went to London for a week to visited a few fashion school for when I would have finished school and passed my Baccalaureate. Once there I presented my portfolio that I had been working on and got offered a place straight away. I knew then that once I had finished school I was going to study fashion design at Ravensbourne college in England.
What do you look for as a buyer?
Pieces that I have the “coup de foudre” [love at first sight] crush on. When I see something I like, I know straight away if I need this pieces or not for my customers. I work a lot with my gut instinct but also what my customers like to wear.
I am always looking for pretty, feminine pieces that are flattering to on. I also love sourcing the latest trend in both clothes and accessories.
What are the challenges in launching your own brand in Australia, in France or in the world in general?
One of the most challenging thing in my opinion is getting your name out there, getting people to know you, your brand, fit and quality of your clothes and Accessories.
The other thing would be finding reliable suppliers, this takes time and a lot of trial and errors.
What are the trends for Spring/Summer?
It’s all about the colour blocked stripped shirts and dresses back with pearls and beaded necklaces/bracelets. Oh and also anything with the evil eye bead! This is probably the newest trend for this summer too.
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We thank Wendy Trinet for talking to us about her brand Eyes on Floyd.
KEY INFO FOR EYES ON FLOYD
WHAT: Eyes on Floyd, a Franco-Australian brand of clothing and accessories
